Sticking throttle cables

[Vera is my baby]

Hi Guys, 

Has anyone had a problem with sticking throttle cables? Mines a 2015 plate and the throttle is slow to close with the bars straight but gets worse from a slight turn to really bad in full lock. I haven’t ridden the bike since November and it was a little tight then but not as bad as it is now.
I’ve got the left panel off and the small cover that exposes the end of the cables where they attach to the throttle bodies. The cables appear to be routed correctly. I’ve sprayed the linkage that I can see without taking the tank off with 3in one oil and also at the grip end with the switch apart.
Plan next is to disconnect them and lube them, especially now I’ve seen the price of new cables at £63 each. If you buy the grips (heated) they are £193 each side!! Has anyone replaced these ( which are crap anyway) with Oxford grips?

Anyway just wondered if anyone else has had a similar problem. The bikes done 46000 miles.

[Bikespod]

Not done it on my CR yet, but I’ve found on previous bikes that a lube with PTFE in it works a treat.
You can buy a little gizmo that clamps onto the cable covering and allows you to force lube down the cable under pressure. Keep going until it comes out the other end.
A few rags come in handy to prevent anything getting on something it shouldn’t.

I’ve just replaced my bars ( Mk1 ) and had to replace the heated grips also. It had R&G ones on it already, and as I could just unplug the existing grips and leave the rest of the cabling in place, I went with the same.
To be honest I find them a bit too hot on anything above level 3. I’ve always used Oxford ones before ( not counting years without them ) and they are good. But the R&G ones seem to be made of a more durable material. Oxford one tend to go sticky after a few years and start to wear out.
The R&G ones also don’t have any branding on them. Just a grip pattern. I’m a convert.

[Bikespod]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143044218035

[Vera is my baby]

Hi Bikespod, thanks for the reply, I’m going to have a go tomorrow at lubing the cables so I’ll let

you know how I get on. 👍

[Vera is my baby]

I sorted the sticking throttle cables out today but not by lubricating them. The first thing I did was to take out the 2 bolts that hold the switch and the throttle twist grip together on the handle bar, the plan being to try and disconnect the cables to lube them. The electrics in the switch pull out completely without having to unscrew anything, which is a lot easier than on some older Hondas.

With the electrics out of the way I backed off the adjuster on the cable to give as much free play as possible and then (thank f##**) tried the throttle again, and it snapped shut 😊😊 happy days. To cut a long story short, I like a responsive throttle so I had taken all free play out of the twist grip by using the adjuster on the cable. When I backed it off the throttle snapped shut like it should. All reassembled and no problems at all👍 I’m not quite sure why it has that affect but if anyone does and would like to comment please do.

As often is the case, it’s the simple things that are at fault and I am so pleased I didn’t take the tank off to access the end of the cables, to disconnect and lube to reassemble and still have a sticking throttle.

[Bikespod]

Free play in the throttle should be 5mm. In other words the throttle grip should rotate 5mm before it actually moves the cable.

[Vera is my baby]

Can you explain why when there is less than 5mm, it makes the throttle stick? Rather than just close but maybe revving slightly over tick over.

[Bikespod]

Sorry, I have no idea. I just follow the rules 😉

[Skids]

Originally Posted by Vera is my baby

Can you explain why when there is less than 5mm, it makes the throttle stick? Rather than just close but maybe revving slightly over tick over.

It doesn't, but it reduces tolerances and if there is anything else amiss then it may just prevent the throttle from closing fully.

Mr Honda knows what he is doing. 

[Vera is my baby]

Thanks Skids, it’s nice to know👍